My first guess was that they used an external brick for the power supply with a relatively low output voltage--that would eliminate a lot of the CE test load. However, a cursory glance at the product photos suggests the power supply sits within the base of the lamp. Maybe the product developer can shed some more light on this. ;-)
That would certainly make certification easier, but as I suspect you understand, wouldnt achieve it alone.
Even if every component was CE qualified, the combination would have to pass its own testing, plus there are a lot more to the standards than just not electrocuting you immediately upon contact.
I can't see any of the energy efficiency labelling that would be required in the UK or EU for example...
I'm curious that this story seems to be missing a big part of hardware design - certification.
It seems like the design was being changed up to the minute these were shipped to customers, so it doesn't seem possible that any testing was carried out on the final design?
Given that these went straight to backers, and would have required the final die cast parts to test in the thermal chamber, they probably had not gone to an NRTL at the point the article had been written.
This product is about at the point of DVT in development flow, and therefore would be sent to testing about now. But, instead, being sent to backers.
PS, not a hypothetical circumstance for me. I've previously certified a number of luminaires under UL and CB Scheme. I was the technical chair of ANSI C136.37 for several years, and on the working groups of several other standards.
Yeah, I was confused on that front as well. Unclear why a prototype wasn’t initially made by the factory to be vetted and approved before producing hundreds of lamps.
There was a different lamp startup article kind of recently, where they talked about this, and if I remember correctly they needed to run the lamp for like 1000 hours straight for it to receive some kind of certification.
I could search for it if you want to read about that.
The live prongs are insulated to such a length you should not be able to touch any conductive part before the plug is no longer making electrical contact with the socket.
It's likely you got a small zap from a filtering capacitor inside the device that had not yet discharged.
If it was a genuine plug, but there are non-genuine plugs around which aren't insulated (as well as ones with an insulated Earth!). If the plug was older than 1984 it could even have been genuine, as insulation wasn't required until then.
It's possible that buying the TV and removing the toxisity is more effective - you get the subsidised price, but the manufacturer never makes the ad money back.
I run Blueiris (https://blueirissoftware.com/). The beauty is you can run a mix of cameras, so I have decent Hikvision ones outside and whatever cheap PTZ I find at a good price inside.
Multiple sources spread over an area would be more efficient, as each LED could run at lower current and temperature, which increases their efficacy.
The light would also not have to bounce off ceilings/walls multiple times, while some are nice for diffusion, every reflection is lossy.
I suspect you’d also get better reliability.